1. Ngarusangis shell soup, a rare recipe of
Ilocanos.
Because I can’t find ngarusangis in the Internet and in
references on Philippine shells, I took it upon myself to call this extremely small
marine bivalve, Fairy Shell. (It
sounds like Pearly Shell, a Hawaiian folk song.) In Nagtupacan, San Vicente, Ilocos Sur, I
remember as a child fisher folks gathering ngarusangis on the estuarine by the
ganta (around one liter, the size of a large pineapple can), as this was the
common means of measurement at that time. The shells are as small as rice, so
that there is a technique in removing the shell. Basang, my auntie, would first
boil water, then immerse the washed shells immediately, stir the pot until the
shells which being bivalves easily open, thus exposing their white to grayish
flesh which automatically separate from the shell and settle at the bottom of
the pot, which is then gathered. This is done repeatedly until the shells are
empty. The soup is very rich in calcium
and other minerals. It is served as soup, cooked with vegetables (bulanglang), or made into omelet.
This shell is now being
endangered for a number of reasons.
- It is gathered in large quantities together with
other small shells and fed to ducks. The ballot industry requires tons and
tons of live shells which are gathered along shorelines.
- Pollution has destroyed the natural habitat of this
shell as well as other organisms.
- Beaches and shorelines continue to shrink as a result
of tourism and advancing settlements.
- Conversion of mangroves, beaches and estuaries into
fishponds has either destroyed or displaced countless species of marine
and terrestrial organisms.
- Aquaculture of mussels, oysters, seaweeds and fish
does not include the culture of less important organisms such as
ngarusangis.
- Global warming renders water temperature intolerable
to many organisms. Rising sea level
exacerbates this condition.
The practice of gathering the
blood while dressing the chicken is now rare. Well, it is because we get our
chicken from the supermarket or grocery already dressed or frozen. But in the good old days, chicken blood is
mixed with glutinous rice (malagkit). This is done by getting just enough rice, wash
it quickly in a small shallow plate, and blood directly coming from the chicken
is mixed and allowed to settle, solidifying in a minute or two. It is easily dislodged from the plate when it
is time to cook it with the chicken when cooking tinola (stew). We kids would
automatically pick it up even while the stew is still in the pot, but our
elders would divide it among ourselves to settle the issue.
3. Padas Bagoong, a rare
specialty but ecologically destructive.
Padas is the fry of spinefoot or rabbitfish, locally known as
When passing through Urdaneta and
Villasis Pangasinan you find padas bagoong in bottles sold on the shelf or by
peddlers. Sometimes the small fish is
beautifully arranged in rows covering the entire bottle. How skillfully and patiently is the art done
considering how small the fry is. It is
preferable to buy seasoned padas
bagoong. Ask the seller; better still check it yourself. The fish are well settled in the bottle with
an appreciable amount of patis appearing as a layer on top. Get a bottle that
is sell sealed – and of course, well filled.
Padas is the fry of Malaga or samaral which
grows up to a kilo apiece, so that the practice of gathering padas must be
strictly discouraged. Ecologically we
are destroying the species every time we patronize padas bagoong. One kilo of padas probably amounts to several
hundreds of individual fish that potentially matures in six months time. It is
no wonder the price of samaral in the market is about twice that of ordinary
fish.
(Ref. Conlu P V 1986 Fishes: Guide to
Philippine Flora and Fauna Series)
In Paaralang Bayan sa Himpapawid
(school-on-the-air) program, five callers phoned to give
their answers. Except one who said he learned about this
rare dish from a friend, the callers apparently Ilocanos, said they have
actually tasted jumping salad. This dish
is prepared from newly caught small to medium shrimps from the estuaries and
rivers, and while they are still very much alive are served right there and
then with calamansi and salt, momentarily agitating the fated creatures. Pronto! The shrimps, on removing the cover,
frantically jump out of the plate, save the dazed one. You should be skillful in catching them from
the table (and even on the floor) deftly picking them by the head, taking
caution so as not to get hurt by their sharp rostrum. You can imagine the danger you face as the
creature makes its last attempt to escape.
You must get a firm hold before putting the struggling creature into
your mouth, tail first and quickly bite off the head, severing the sharp dagger
in your hold. The creature wriggles in the cave of your mouth and you can
actually feel its convulsion fading as it undergoes the initial process of
digestion. Being an Ilocano myself, eating jumping salad is an adventure and
rarely do you experience having one nowadays, unless you are living near the
sea, river or lake, or a good friend brings live shrimps to town in banana
stalk container to keep them alive. Try it; it’s one for the Book of Guinness. ~